maciu1

Cauta pe forum ca s-a tot discutat problema ta. Probabil iti face figuri unul din senzorii de ABS. Si in alta ordine de idei, cei de la reprezentanta BMW la care te-ai dus nu ti-au dat o fisa de constatare? In care sa-ti spuna ce ti-au gasit defect si pentru ce ti-au luat banii? DIS-ul are meniu de "print", tocmai pentru asta. Sa i se inmaneze clientului o fisa in care sint trecute toate operatiunile referitoare la diagnoza facuta.

Vorbeste cu userul "clauberty". Din cate stiu eu, foloseste DIS-ul, asa ca nu ar trebui sa fie vreo problema.

Daca le mai ai, te scap eu de ele. Multumesc!

Vezi ca la Adelaida e si o varianta mai slaba (si mai ieftina) a sursei de ti-am aratat-o. Oricum, daca am eu informatia corecta, se pare ca originalul e asta: Multicharger 900 http://www.eltek-valere.de/en/products/mul...r-multicharger/

UIte si sursa de la Adelaida: http://www.adelaida.ro/product_info.php?products_id=6173

Paul, o sursa din asta ar fi cam buna : http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...=&SUBCATID= Vezi ca si cei de la Adelaida au o sursa bunicica. Apropos de scanarea cu INPA...imho, daca si la cilindrul 4 ai fi avut o valoare mai mica, ziceam ca e nou motorul...<_< (ma refer la valorile de la rough measuring)

Citeste aici : http://www.bmwclub.ro/forums/index.php?sho...c=35005&hl= s-ar putea sa te intereseze.

O scurta descriere a rolului si functionarii acestor clapete (pt DDE 5.0, dar cred ca si la celelalte e la fel) : Swirl flap control DDE 5.0 The adjustable swirl flaps are located in the tangential channels of the intake system and are opened and closed according to the operating status of the engine. The swirl flaps are closed under the following conditions: # at low engine speeds and low injection volumes (map-controlled) The swirl flaps generally remain open when # the coolant temperature < 15°C OR # the intake air temperature < 15°C Function The pressure converter connects the vacuum unit with the vacuum supply by means of hoses. When activated by the DDE control unit, the changeover valve switches vacuum to the vacuum unit. The vacuum unit actuates the control rod and the swirl flaps close. The control rod is up against the rear stop when the swirl flaps are open. Troubleshooting If a fault is detected in the control of the pressure converter, the following faults may be detected: # 4130, Activation short circuit to B+ # 4141, Activation short circuit to B- # 4152, Activation circuit break # 4153, Excess temperature output stage Effects of faults If the swirl flaps stick in open position: Deterioration in exhaust gas characteristics in lower speed ranges otherwise no effect. If the swirl flaps stick in closed position: Power loss of approx. 10% at higher engine speeds. Din pacate, blocarea clapetelor nu este semnalizata la bord auditiv sau vizual de nici un martor. Se poate evidentia prin diagnoza computerizata, dar atata vreme cat ti se pare ca masina merge bine, nu prea iti vine "sa o pui pe scaner". Si te pomenesti cu clapeta si boltul respectiv in cilindru...

Pe linga sfatul pertinent pe care ti l-a dat userul myxage, adaug si eu : schimba si mecanicul sau macar testerul...<_<. Chiar daca pe tester nu apare cod de defect referitor la debitmetru, se pot urmari, la diverse turatii, valorile pe care acesta le raporteaza. In functie de aceste valori iti poti da seama daca debitmetrul functioneaza corect sau nu. Am atasat o poza de la o scanare a unui motor exact ca al tau, la ralanti.

Mai oameni buni, cind va mai duceti la "diagnoze", cereti si lamuririle de rigoare. In plus, solicitati o poza, un printscreen, un listing, nu conteaza ce, ideea e sa va ramana ceva dupa scanarea aia. Mai ales la reprezentantele oficiale....Nu mai dati banii doar ca sa va stearga codurile de defect! Revenind, pt ca nu specifici ce versiune de motor ai, incerc sa te ajut cu un printscreen de la un 330d, (M57TUB30--2004), la care printre altele, apare si codul 4152. Nu are legatura cu turbina, ci cu galeria de admisie. Vezi ca nu e de gluma cu asta. Se poate bloca una din clapete, sparge si ajunge in cilindru...Stiu 2 flacai cu E60, 525d care au patit-o... http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8517/llk4.jpg Swirl flap control DDE 5.0 The adjustable swirl flaps are located in the tangential channels of the intake system and are opened and closed according to the operating status of the engine. The swirl flaps are closed under the following conditions: ? at low engine speeds and low injection volumes (map-controlled) The swirl flaps generally remain open when ? the coolant temperature < 15°C OR ? the intake air temperature < 15°C Function The pressure converter connects the vacuum unit with the vacuum supply by means of hoses. When activated by the DDE control unit, the changeover valve switches vacuum to the vacuum unit. The vacuum unit actuates the control rod and the swirl flaps close. The control rod is up against the rear stop when the swirl flaps are open. Troubleshooting If a fault is detected in the control of the pressure converter, the following faults may be detected: ? 4130, Activation short circuit to B+ ? 4141, Activation short circuit to B- ? 4152, Activation circuit break ? 4153, Excess temperature output stage Effects of faults If the swirl flaps stick in open position: Deterioration in exhaust gas characteristics in lower speed ranges otherwise no effect. If the swirl flaps stick in closed position: Power loss of approx. 10% at higher engine speeds. Page 1 Swirl flap control DDE 5.0 of 1 file://G:\release\en\zinfo\FIN0201FB47TU028.htm 10/19/2008

Am gasit pe net un articol mai detaliat despre procedura de resetare a intervalelor de service. Daca nici asa nu merge... Iar in privinta PDC-ului, cind mai face figuri, daca ai timp si rabdare, schimba senzorii intre ei. O sa ne apara la scanare daca ei fac probleme sau nu. --------Firstly with the ignition switched on, set the odometer trip meter back to zero by pushing it once. Then switch the ignition back off again. (I found this step was critical, otherwise I couldn't get to the "Service" menu). Now you are ready to go through the reset steps as follows: 1. Switch the ignition on (so that the battery, Oil and Parking brake lights are displayed) and the key is ready to start the engine - but don't actually start the car. 2. Press the odometer reset button for between 5 and 10 seconds until a yellow triangle with an exclamation mark in the centre appears in the top window between the clocks (where the outside temperature / time or date normally appears) - this is the "Service" icon. 3. Release the odometer button briefly and press again straight away which brings up a picture of the Brake Fluid symbol (same as the one that the i-drive shows when you look at the Service menu). 4. If you want to reset the Brake Fluid interval for another 2 years then keep holding the odometer button until the word "RESET?" appears at the bottom of the lower window. 5. Release the button briefly and push it in again and hold for about 5 - 10 seconds until the new date appears in the bottom window. You can then switch the ignition off and the new Brake Fluid date will appear in the service menu on the i-drive screen next time you switch on. 6. If you want to reset the Oil, Microfilter or Brake Pad indicators then you will need to follow the same sequence as steps 1 and 2 above, but when you get to step 3 and the brake Fluid icon appears, just release the button and press again and the next service item will appear. 7. You can continue releasing and pressing the button until the required service item icon appears for the one you want to reset. As soon as it does then hold in the button in until the word "RESET?" appears again as in step 4 above. Once the word "RESET?" has appeared, you need to release the button briefly and hold it in again for about 5 - 10 seconds until it is replaced by the new service interval figure (as per step 5 above). Hints & Tips Before actually resetting anything, go through steps 1, 2 and 6 above until you are familiar (and sure) what you want to reset. Practice this a few times and note down in what order the icons appear after the initial "Service" icon appears. If you do happen to hold the button down too long against an item you don't want to reset and the "RESET?" appears, just leave the button alone for 10 seconds or so and it will not let you reset the item. (Alternatively just switch the ignition off and start again). Sometimes if you have not released and pressed the button again quickly enough, when you hold it down again the German technical writing will appear after about 15 - 20 seconds instead of the Service item icon you were expecting. (If this happens just switch off the ignition and start again). Once you are sure what item you want to reset and are confident of the sequence, then give it a go. If you do hesitate between releasing and pressing the button at any time, you will have to go back to the beginning and start again as "he who hesitates is lost"."

sunt laptop-uri care nu au serial si deci trebuie sa cauti un adaptor usb-serial Vezi ca nu merge cu orice adaptor. Cel mai bine e sa faci rost de un laptop cu port serial nativ.

Lasa-l incolo de Vista. Pune pe o partitie XP-ul, si daca interfata e buna, trebuie sa mearga.

De ce incerci interfata KKL cu Carsoftul? Nu cred sa mearga. Instaleaza mai bine Ediabas-ul, si daca interfata e buna, iti va functiona perfect. (cel putin partea de computer motor).

Daca interfata e cu mufa USB, probabil ca ai un FT232BM/BL pe acolo. Driverii ii gasesti pe site-ul chip-ului. Cel mai bine ar fi sa postezi bucata de schema cu partea de USB si atunci e mai clara treaba. <_<

Faptul ca "scoate zgomot" la pornire, dupa care se opreste, inseamna ca pompa functioneaza normal si isi face rolul, acela ca noxele emise se incadreze in limita Euro3, imediat cum motorul porneste. Asa ca, stai linistit. :)

E foarte probabil ca zgomotul de-l auzi sa provina de la pompa de recirculare aer. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...;fg=50&hl=3 Altceva, in mod normal, nu are voie sa se auda asa cum ai descris.

Se gaseste de cumparat, nou, doar senzorul. Asta din poza e chiar pt dieseluri. Costa 300 ron. http://img221.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00009cy0.jpg Scuze pt imagine, dar ceva se intimpla cu imageshack-u... :)

Pt motorul tau de 1995cc, la o turatie de 750rpm, teoretic, ar trebui sa arate 13,8 kg/h. Asa ca, real, trebuie sa ai o valoare de 12-13 kg/h.

Se poate vedea buna functionare a debitmetrului. In cazul motorului de 1895cc, la turatia de relanti --800 rpm--, teoretic, debitmetrul ar trebui sa indice ~ 13kg/h. In realitate, cind senzorul e bun, "arata" un 11,5--12,5 kg/h. Cel din poza, se vede clar ca indica mult mai putin. De asemenea, se observa si din diferenta f. mare a tensiunilor reala/teoretica. http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/6825/valoridebitmetruex5.jpg

Ai clapeta de acceleratie mecanica. Adica e legata printr-un cablu de pedala de acceleratie, pe care o apesi tu cu piciorul drept...Asa ca, nu prea imi dau seama cum sa aibe momente in care sa nu functioneze...doar daca te joci tu cu pedala (o apesi un pic, ii dai drumul si tot asa :) ). Alta trebuie sa fie cauza. Poate cablul nu e bine prins in clema de la clapeta? cu toate ca e un arc acolo, ce tensioneaza cablul permanent... Uita-te si tu la mecanismul ala. Da-i cu un pic de WD40 :) Si nu mai folosi expresia "service de incredere". Parerea mea.

Salut! Stie cineva daca tapiteria de pe scaunele din poza e originala sau nu? Ma refer la partea centrala a scaunului, delimitata de "tivul" alb. Am observat destule masini cu "stilul" asta si vreau sa stiu daca nu cumva e o lucrare aplicata de proprietari. Multumesc pt raspunsuri. http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/5264/scaunetp5.jpg

Cheia dinamometrica nu e obligatorie. Dar iti da siguranta ca strangi de piulita atat cat trebuie. :twoup: Pt cuplurile de strangere te uiti in TIS.

Citeste mai multe aici: http://www.bmwclub.ro/forums/index.php?sho...mp;#entry367471 Daca nu ma insel, se numeste "RUBBER MOUNTING" si are pn 33326770786. Pozitia 4 din tabelul de pe realoem.com

Daca zici ca e pozitionata sub sau pe linga prag, atunci e vorba de bucsa care intra in piesa nr. 17. Spune si tu ce model de BMW ai, ca sa poti fi ajutat cat mai bine! Dupa ce-ti schimba mecanicul bucsa aia, e obligatoriu sa te duci la un service sa-ti regleze geometria la puntea spate.