WLF

E valabil pentru cele cu EDC. Sunt foarte scumpe. De asta o sa vezi multe BMW_uri care au EDC, dar nu funtioneaza pentru ca proprietarii au pus telescoape normale. Vorbesc in general de E32.

Pai daca iti iei 520i atunci las-o asa. Nu e o masina sportiva, 150 de cai nu sunt cine stie ce. Eu prefer confort fata de rigiditatea suspensiei sportive. Intre un 523i si 520i nu e mare diferenta de consum. Daca ai avea noroc sa gasesti un motor cu dublu vanos, ar fi chiar un consum decent pentru oras, cam 11.

Laur avea documentatia. Ia legatura cu el.

In rezervor ai sonda de nivel. E posibil sa fie dusa sonda. Si la mine la un E34, acul se misca dupa cum luam eu curbele. Trebuie scoasa pompa afara, e pusa intr-un fel de invelis de plastic pe care e prinsa si sonda de nivel si o sita fina pentru sorbul de benzina.

Sonda lambda masoara nivelul de oxigen din gazele de evacuare. I se mai zice senzor de oxigen. Citeste chestia asta: In response to several requests for more information about Oxygen (O2) sensors, perhaps the following information will help. Comment: These procedures are only for self powered conventional sensors. Some very new cars are using a different style sensor that is powered. *Many* Oxygen sensors are replaced that are good to excellent. *Many* people don't know how to test them. They routinely last 50,000 or more miles, and if the engine is in good shape, can last the life of the car. What does the O2 sensor do? It is the primary measurement device for the fuel control computer in your car to know if the engine is too rich or too lean. The O2 sensor is active anytime it is hot enough, but the computer only uses this information in the closed loop mode. Closed loop is the operating mode where all engine control sensors including the Oxygen sensor are used to get best fuel economy, lowest emissions, and good power. Should the O2 sensor be replaced when the sensor light comes on in your car? Probably not, but you should test it to make sure it is alive and well. This assumes that the light you see is simply an emissions service reminder light and not a failure light. A reminder light is triggered by a mileage event (20-40,000 miles usually) or something like 2000 key start cycles. EGR dash lights usually fall into the reminder category. Consult your owners manual, auto repair manual, dealer, or repair shop for help on what your light means. How do I know if my O2 sensor may be bad? If your car has lost several miles per gallon of fuel economy and the usual tune up steps do not improve it. This *is not* a pointer to O2 failure, it just brings up the possibility. Vacuum leaks and ignition problems are common fuel economy destroyers. As mentioned by others, the on board computer may also set one of several failure "codes". If the computer has issued a code pertaining to the O2 sensor, the sensor and it's wiring should be tested. Usually when the sensor is bad, the engine will show some loss of power, and will not seem to respond quickly. What will damage my O2 sensor? Home or professional auto repairs that have used silicone gasket sealer that is not specifically labeled "Oxygen sensor safe", "Sensor safe", or something similar, if used in an area that is connected to the crankcase. This includes valve covers, oil pan, or nearly any other gasket or seal that controls engine oil. Leaded fuel will ruin the O2 sensor in a short time. If a car is running rich over a long period, the sensor may become plugged up or even destroyed. Just shorting out the sensor output wire will not usually hurt the sensor. This simply grounds the output voltage to zero. Once the wiring is repaired, the circuit operates normally. Undercoating, antifreeze or oil on the *outside* surface of the sensor can kill it. See how does an Oxygen sensor work. Will testing the O2 sensor hurt it? Almost always, the answer is no. You must be careful to not *apply* voltage to the sensor, but measuring it's output voltage is not harmful. As noted by other posters, a cheap voltmeter will not be accurate, but will cause no damage. This is *not* true if you try to measure the resistance of the sensor. Resistance measurements send voltage into a circuit and check the amount returning. How does an O2 sensor work? An Oxygen sensor is a chemical generator. It is constantly making a comparison between the Oxygen inside the exhaust manifold and air outside the engine. If this comparison shows little or no Oxygen in the exhaust manifold, a voltage is generated. The output of the sensor is usually between 0 and 1.1 volts. All spark combustion engines need the proper air fuel ratio to operate correctly. For gasoline this is 14.7 parts of air to one part of fuel. When the engine has more fuel than needed, all available Oxygen is consumed in the cylinder and gasses leaving through the exhaust contain almost no Oxygen. This sends out a voltage greater than 0.45 volts. If the engine is running lean, all fuel is burned, and the extra Oxygen leaves the cylinder and flows into the exhaust. In this case, the sensor voltage goes lower than 0.45 volts. Usually the output range seen seen is 0.2 to 0.7 volts. The sensor does not begin to generate it's full output until it reaches about 600 degrees F. Prior to this time the sensor is not conductive. It is as if the circuit between the sensor and computer is not complete. The mid point is about 0.45 volts. This is neither rich nor lean. A fully warm O2 sensor *will not spend any time at 0.45 volts*. In many cars, the computer sends out a bias voltage of 0.45 through the O2 sensor wire. If the sensor is not warm, or if the circuit is not complete, the computer picks up a steady 0.45 volts. Since the computer knows this is an "illegal" value, it judges the sensor to not be ready. It remains in open loop operation, and uses all sensors except the O2 to determine fuel delivery. Any time an engine is operated in open loop, it runs somewhat rich and makes more exhaust emissions. This translates into lost power, poor fuel economy and air pollution. The O2 sensor is constantly in a state of transition between high and low voltage. Manfucturers call this crossing of the 0.45 volt mark O2 cross counts. The higher the number of O2 cross counts, the better the sensor and other parts of the computer control system are working. It is important to remember that the O2 sensor is comparing the amount of Oxygen inside and outside the engine. If the outside of the sensor should become blocked, or coated with oil, sound insulation, undercoating or antifreeze, (among other things), this comparison is not possible. How can I test my O2 sensor? They can be tested both in the car and out. If you have a high impedence volt meter, the procedure is fairly simple. It will help you to have some background on the way the sensor does it's job. Read how does an O2 sensor work first. Testing O2 sensors that are installed The engine must first be fully warm. If you have a defective thermostat, this test may not be possible due to a minimum temperature required for closed loop operation. Attach the positive lead of a high impedence DC voltmeter to the Oxygen sensor output wire. This wire should remain attached to the computer. You will have to back probe the connection or use a jumper wire to get access. The negative lead should be attached to a good clean ground on the engine block or accessory bracket. Cheap voltmeters will not give accurate results because they load down the circuit and absorb the voltage that they are attempting to measure. A acceptable value is 1,000,000 ohms/volt or more on the DC voltage. Most (if not all) digital voltmeters meet this need. Few (if any) non-powered analog (needle style) voltmeters do. Check the specs for your meter to find out. Set your meter to look for 1 volt DC. Many late model cars use a heated O2 sensor. These have either two or three wires instead of one. Heated sensors will have 12 volts on one lead, ground on the other, and the sensor signal on the third. If you have two or three wires, use a 15 or higher volt scale on the meter until you know which is the sensor output wire. When you turn the key on, do not start the engine. You should see a change in voltage on the meter in most late model cars. If not, check your connections. Next, check your leads to make sure you won't wrap up any wires in the belts, etc. then start the engine. You should run the engine above 2000 rpm for two minutes to warm the O2 sensor and try to get into closed loop. Closed loop operation is indicated by the sensor showing several cross counts per second. It may help to rev the engine between idle and about 3000 rpm several times. The computer recognizes the sensor as hot and active once there are several cross counts. You are looking for voltage to go above and below 0.45 volts. If you see less than 0.2 and more than 0.7 volts and the value changes rapidly, you are through, your sensor is good. If not, is it steady high (> 0.45) near 0.45 or steady low (< 0.45). If the voltage is near the middle, you may not be hot yet. Run the engine above 2000 rpm again. If the reading is steady low, add richness by partially closing the choke or adding some propane through the air intake. Be very careful if you work with any extra gasoline, you can easily be burned or have an explosion. If the voltage now rises above 0.7 to 0.9, and you can change it at will by changing the extra fuel, the O2 sensor is usually good. If the voltage is steady high, create a vacuum leak. Try pulling the PCV valve out of it's hose and letting air enter. You can also use the power brake vacuum supply hose. If this drives the voltage to 0.2 to 0.3 or less and you can control it at will by opening and closing the vacuum leak, the sensor is usually good. If you are not able to make a change either way, stop the engine, unhook the sensor wire from the computer harness, and reattach your voltmeter to the sensor output wire. Repeat the rich and lean steps. If you can't get the sensor voltage to change, and you have a good sensor and ground connection, try heating it once more. Repeat the rich and lean steps. If still no voltage or fixed voltage, you have a bad sensor. If you are not getting a voltage and the car has been running rich lately, the sensor may be carbon fouled. It is sometimes possible to clean a sensor in the car. Do this by unplugging the sensor harness, warming up the engine, and creating a lean condition at about 2000 rpm for 1 or 2 minutes. Create a big enough vacuum leak so that the engine begins to slow down. The extra heat will clean it off if possible. If not, it was dead anyway, no loss. In either case, fix the cause of the rich mixture and retest. If you don't, the new sensor will fail. Testing O2 sensors on the workbench. Use a high impedence DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds. If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure. If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection needing faster information than carbureted systems. ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated, show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age. When replacing a sensor, don't miss the opportunity to use the test above on the replacement. This will calibrate your evaluation skills and save you money in the future. There is almost always *no* benefit in replacing an oxygen sensor that will pass the test in the first line of this paragraph.

Pai nu ai decat doua variante. Senzor defect, deci ar trebui sa il inlocuiesti ca sa vezi ce se intampla, si presiune slaba, care poate fi de la ulei prea subtire, sau contaminat cu motorina, apa. Incearca sa pui un aditiv eventual, care ar ingrosa un pic uleiul si ar creste presiunea. Varianta cea mai sumbra, e sa nu ai presiune, deci uzura motor sau pompa de ulei slaba (cam imposibil, pompele sunt bune).

Ce culoare are indicatorul? Daca e galben indica nivelul, daca e rosu indica presiune.

Tampenia asta face cam imposibila recarosarea de M5. Pentru ca nu e un lucru usor sa scoti motorul de M5 cu tot ce are, si sa pui motorul care era original pe masina ce se recaroseaza. Apoi trebuie sa il faci pe cel care il pui si functional, pentru ca masina trebuie dusa la RAR pentru omologare, dupa care iar dai jos motorul din acte si il pui pe cel de M5 la loc. Deja ai platit 2 manopere destul de piperate. In concluzie, e dificil, dar nu imposibil.

E46 argintiu VL-25-WLF. Nu mai e altul de Valcea in Cluj. E bine ca ne creste numarul de forumisti in Cluj. Eu am si sticker cu bmwclub.ro, ma gandeam ca ar fi multi care sa il vada si sa intre. Nu am auzit povesti cu soareci pana acum, dar nu te costa mai nimic sa fii prevazator.

Da, la EDC clasic, suspensia era activa, dar nu o puteai comanda. La Nurburgring aveai buton Sport si Komfort, ca si la 750iL. Se poate sa fi fost pus Nurburgring la toate dupa 94, nu stiu detalii chiar asa de amanuntite. Explica in articolul urmator cum functiona EDC_ul:

CJ-77-CAP presupun. :) Azi cred ca ne-am intersectat si mi-a luat ochii ca era spalat.

Hmm, EDC stiam ca e doar pe spate, cel putin la E32 asa era. Pai un M5 3.8 din '95 editie Nurburgring (singura cu EDC) e peste 10 mii. Cu tot cu taxe, iese foarte scump. Tot nu cred ca vom vedea multe prin tara nici in 2007. Si de fapt e posibil sa nu se poata aduce decat masini sub 8 ani. Cel putin asa e in Cehia, poti aduce orice, Euro2, nu conteaza, dar sa fie mai noi de 8 ani.

Pai sa stiti voi ca la modelele de E39 din 97-98 era o cheie cu butoane de cauciuc, de fapt si E38 si E46 a avut. Si de la tinutul in buzunare stramte, butoanele se mancau, si aratau foarte urat. Si cu timpul acel cauciuc devenea foarte moale, ca o guma de sters. Deci cei care au cheie stil carapace, sa fie bucurosi.

Si eu mi-as dori un M5 E34. Din pacate nu prea se gasesc inmatriculate in tara. Am gasit mai demult unul, dar de fapt era un 525 cu kit de M si scria Motorsport pe capacul de la motor. Cam o data pe an apar de vanzare, si daca nu esti pe faza, dispar.

Totusi nu cred ca farurile influenteaza, sau orice alt consumator electric, alternatorul nu prea opune rezistenta,chiar daca e pe curea, pe cand un compresor de clima are pistoane care se pun in miscare ca la un motor si pentru asta consuma ceva putere si combustibil.

Eu am fost campion la pana prostului, deci sunt expert, primul lucru care il fac cand imi iau alta masina, e sa ii testez consumul, si felul in care imi indica nivelul. Sunt genul care baga de 500 de mii la 3 zile, nu prea fac plinul, nici nu circul foarte mult, birou-acasa, deobicei cand boschetez aiurea, o fac cu masina prietenilor.

Turatie are si daca nu ii vine benzina. Spre exemplu, daca tractezi masina si o bagi in viteza, vei vedea ca ca turatie este, desi poate rezervorul este gol. Deci turatie nu inseamna ca arde.

La mine becul se aprinde cam pe la 10 litri, am testat de la inceput ca sa stiu care e situatia. In plus de asta, am mai mers cu masina inca vreo 20 de km pana am alimentat, din momentul in care acul era lesinat de tot, nici macar nu se mai ridica. Tin minte ca la 535i, aveam computer de bord care imi arata Range 0, dar de fapt mai erau inca vreo 2-3 litri de benzina. Deci ceva nu e in regula, daca zici ca acul era sus si tu ai bagat 61 de litri, e posibil sa te fi inselat la benzinarie, nu de alta dar mai mult am incredere in BMW, mai ales ca al tau e mai nou.

Instalatia originala vad ca e cam complicata: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...278&hg=65&fg=50

La picioarele pasagerului, in stanga. Dai jos torpedoul si mocheta de pe partea dreapta a consolei centrale. E ca si cum ar fi infipta, o scoti ca pe un cutit implantat in ceva. De aia ii si zice sword resistor pack. Depinde de anul fabricatiei, cele dupa 90 nu mai au "sabie" din asta. Uite aici: http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/maintenance/...rical/sword.htm

E o idee, o trimiti la cumparaturi singura. Poate faci si un lift sa ti le aduca si in fata usii.

Nu are cum sa nu fie simetrica. Nu stiu daca ai dat vreodata chederele jos de pe cadrul usii. O sa vezi din loc in loc niste umflaturi, sunt practic niste semne, dupa care te ghidezi cand faci operatii de genul acesta. Pai eu as alege benzina. Mi-ar place un 523i din toate E39-le care sunt intre 97 si 98 . Problema e ca nu prea am vazut de vanzare, de parca toate E39-le din perioada asta au disparut. Numai 520d si 525d peste tot, sub anul 2000 nu am mai vazut. Acuma am un E46 din 2000.

Nu mai e asa, sunt in jos toate. Daca ar fi drepte, ar sufla in bara, ca sunt la nivelul barii, nu se vad. Numai daca te uiti la ele si vezi ca sunt mai negre la diesel iti dai seama. La un 528i, mai era inca ceva toba micuta langa cea mare, probabil vreun resonator de zgomot, nu stiu exact, dar la celelalte modele nu este.

Am mers eu. Un priten si-a adus din Germania si mi-a dat-o pentru un drivetest. Comparabil cu 316-le meu, motorul mi s-a parut mult mai responsiv la acceleratie, mai putin zgomotos si mai elastic in treptele superioare. Si masina era parca mai rigida, in plus de asta avea scaune sport, m-am simtit foarte confortabil. Ca demaraj insa, slab, foarte slab. Am scos DSC_ul si am facut o lansare. Nimic impresionant, o idee ceva mai tare ca 316le, dar ma asteptam sa simt 40 de cai diferenta. Plus ca desi am scos DSC-ul, ceva sisteme au ramas in functiune, am intors masina pe loc din derapaj si era sa ma sui pe bordura, nu mi-au patinat rotile cat ar fi trebuit. Imi mai zicea cineva mai demult de ciptuning, ca 15 cai cat ar fi dat, se simt. Povesti, se simt doar in imaginatia lor.

In ultima vreme ma tot uit dupa Alfa 156, nu stiu de ce mi s-a pus mie pata, dar sunt unele modele rosii cu jante cu multe spite argintii. Cred ca la masina ta, asta ar da cel mai bine, niste jante gen alpina argintiu deschis. LATER EDIT: ai pus poza in timp ce scriam. Exact la asa ceva ma gandeam, ar da bine de tot argintiu deschis.