ingineru'

Am o vibratie in volan la gropi,mai bine zis masina nu mai e ca din fabrica.Vreau si trebuie sa fie ca noua A fost schimbata toata articulatia fata si toata coloana de directie. Cititi cu atentie inainte sa aberati.Doritorii de posturi si bagatorii de seama sa se abtina.Vreau raspunsuri la obiect,nu intrebari "dar aia ai schimbat-o?".Cand am spus tot inseamna tot,piesele toate LEMFORDER. Si nu ma enervati!!!

cauzele pot fi multiple debitmetru,aer fals(cotul ditre debitmetru si clapeta de acceleratie),calculator,regulator de ralanti,senzor temperatura de pe chiulasa(cel albastru). merg totusi pe debitmetru bulit ,apoi dme si senzor temperatura,fix in ordinea asta.

se spune din batrani ca vanosul iti da niste cuplu in ture mici. practic tine intake-ul deschis ceva mai mult. stiu de la @MAS ca lucreaza pana la 6500 rot/min vanosul.

verifica si sonda de presiune...dar merg pe ce spune Mihai adica lipsa freon. sonda de mai sus comanda inchiderea/deschiderea compresorului. ma gandesc ca in 2-3 secunde nu prea are cum sa raceasca. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CA71&mospid=47435&btnr=64_0163&hg=64&fg=60 piesa 2.

http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenance/Electrical/LKM.htm

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e boala lor,asa face ele :console:

schimb cu jante de e34

+1

merge mai rotund asa,am observat si eu. completari mici si dese intre schimburi.

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vand capete bara LEMFORDER noi in cutie.se potrivesc pe orice e36 indiferent de motorizare,diesel sau benzina. le luasem de rezerva pt pisica dar masina s-a vandut.

Vand/SCHIMB jante de tabla pt e36 in stare buna. Doresc sa schimb cu bara spate normala pt e34 sau cutie de viteze GETRAG. Astept oferte...

nu,nu mai avea rost :twoup:

am patit si io asa,ma intrebam daca a pus discu' invers.am schimbat si aerisit si cilindru receptor,degeaba. pana nu am schimbat volanta nu am scapat de problema. deci eu zic ca e volanta.daca e noua,tot volanta zic ca e. verifica si piesele astea de la timonerie http://www.bmwclub.ro/forums/index.php?act...t&id=161785 si "shift pin-ii" http://webspace.ringling.edu/~dplassma/bmw...shift_pins.html

+1.

citeste aici sa te luminezi care e treaba cu uleiul How do I read the numbers around the 'W'? For example 5W40? Single grade oils get too thin when hot for most modern engines which is where multigrade oil comes in. The idea is simple - use science and physics to prevent the base oil from getting as thin as it would normally do when it gets hot. There's more detail on this later in the page under both viscosity, and SAE ratings. But as a quick primer - the number before the 'W' is the 'cold' viscosity rating of the oil, and the number after the 'W' is the 'hot' viscosity rating. So a 5W40 oil is one which behaves like a 5-rated single grade oil when cold, but doesn't thin any more than a 40-rated single grade oil when hot. The lower the 'winter' number (hence the 'W'), the easier the engine will turn over when starting in cold climates. A quick guide to the different grades of oil. Fully Synthetic Characteristics 0W-30 0W-40 5W-40 Fuel economy savings Enhances engine performance and power Ensures engine is protected from wear and deposit build-up Ensures good cold starting and quick circulation in freezing temperatures Gets to moving parts of the engine quickly Semi-synthetic Characteristics 5W-30 10W-40 15W-40 Better protection Good protection within the first 10 minutes after starting out Roughly three times better at reducing engine wear Increased oil change intervals - don't need to change it quite so often Mineral Characteristics 10W-40 15W-40 Basic protection for a variety of engines Oil needs to be changed more often Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html#ixzz1CLM3Ye7b

pai nu ar face tot timpul la fel? daca se duce pana in limitare pompa e buna.filtru de benzina e nou?

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cand opresti motorul se aude un fasait?

AER!!! exact!nu te gandi ca e aspirator de 2.000w sa traga toti stopii :twoup:

sunt o groaza de locuri...acolo unde nu e etans.... garnitura admisie,o-ringuri injectoare,o-ring joja,furtun debitmetru,furtunuri ICV,furtunuri in general.

PCV-ul e o supapa unisens(din carter catre admisie,asta e sensul). eu zic sa faci asa:scoti futunul din carter si astupi capatul lui.daca trage e bun PCV-ul.normal asa ar trebui pt ca membrana e deschisa de vacuumul din admisie.sau si mai simplu sufli si tragi din furtun,pui botu' si tragi/sufli.daca poti sa tragi,SCHIMBA PCV-ul!am schimbat 3 valve pcv,deci nu vorbesc din auzite.daca o schimbi,schimba si furtunul,o sa vezi ca e copt de la ulei,devine plastilina. presiunea in carter tre sa fie mica...daca opune rezistenta cand scoti busonul e grav,inseamna ca trage aer fals!