ingineru'

care e logica?,aia zic si eu. parca face mai rau cand e calda. azi am facut 120km si iesea mai greu. am o curiozitate:dupa ce schimbi ambreiajul trebuie musai sa aerisesti cilindrul de ambreiaj?

o port tot timpul. mi-a intrat in reflex. ce topicuri bune erau odata...

am fost azi in probe :lol: cand schimb din 3 in 2 iese pe liber greu.daca ii dau un SPRIT iese imediat :) cand schimb din 2 in 3 merge brici. ca la raba dai un sprit si iese din viteza.repet,se intampla doar cand dau treapta inferioara si franez. cand dai inferioara,franezi normal.nu vorbesc de kick-down.

up. se mai adauga la lista si semicaseta TRW e34 buna 50ron.

rezolvat. :) se poate inchide.

curata regulatorul ca lumea,baga in el wd 40 si lasa-l cateva minute la inmuiat.nu se intampla nimic rau. schimba si bujiile,nu sunt scumpe.

ICV functioneaza si la turatii mici,deci cu clapeta deschisa. poti sa cureti ICV-ul.

parca are cataracta! stock e frumos e34.

ce ar putea fi?

da,apas cum trebuie. port 44 la incaltari :) . dupa ce apas si vreau sa schimb schimbatorul opune rezistenta.nu am fortat,dar daca trag normal de el dupa o secunda chiar mai mult pot sa schimb treapta. ce e ciudat ca 300km a mers bine si acum face figuri,se comporta ca si cum nu ar debraia cum si cand trebuie.

am schimbat kit-ul de ambreiaj acum vreo zece zile si masina era in mintile ei. azi,de fapt si ieri am observat ca nu mai pot s-o scot pe liber ca inainte,schimbatorul opune rezistenta. se intampla numai cand decelerez si trebuie sa astept vreo secunda pana iese pe liber.cand accelerez si schimb totul e ok. ulei in cutie am,kit-ul e sachs si cilindrul de ambreiaj e aproape nou(vreo 20.000km),aerisit.

nu mai stiu,modest... a durat mult "programarea".

cel care-ti va schimba ceva(daca e cazul) iti va spune ce si cum. cand am schimbat distributia la pisica am cumparat lantul,patina si contrapatina. mecanicul(laf) a zis ca daca e nevoie schimba si roata dintata(sprochet parca). nu-mi cere detalii ca nu am fost acolo.de fapt am schimbat-o ca asa mi-a venit,avea vreo 200.000km pe bord plus...cine stie.

nu se cumpara second. o cumperi noua. incerarca la mica publicitate pe acest forum.

doar dupa ce desfaci vezi ce e uzat si trebuie schimbat. garnitura se schimba. mie mi s-a rupt distributia.masina era noua,aveam vreo 2 mii de km.era logan si era de la servici. nu glumesc.

asa as face si eu. scoate cum a zis @MIX,asa sa stai linisit :) la carte zice sa fie intre max si min,dar spre maxim!!!

What happens when an engine is overfilled with oil? So you topped up the engine when it was warm after getting a faulty dipstick reading, or you put too much oil in when you changed it yourself. What's the worst that could happen? Well the problem with this is that the next time the engine is run, the windage in the crankcase and other pressures generated by the oil pump, etc. place a great strain on the seal on the rear main bearing. Eventually, often much sooner than the ordinary man in the street might expect, the rear main bearing seal ruptures, and the engine becomes a 'leaker'. If you've got a manual gearbox, this means one thing: this oil goes right onto the flywheel and the face of the clutch disc. A lubricated clutch is A Bad Thing. If this still goes unnoticed, the front seal is the next to go, and the engine then becomes a 'gusher' (or to be more colourful, it starts pissing oil all over the place). As well as smothering the clutch with oil from the rear, the oil now coming from the front leak will be neatly distributed about the engine bay as it hits the front pulley - often propelling it out as far as the brake discs. At the same time as this Hollywood disaster movie is unfolding outside the engine, things aren't working out any better on the inside. As you can see from the diagram, the correct oil level is really close to the rotating crank. Overfilling will mean the crank dips into the oil and churns it into a froth. Froth is good on certain types of coffee but not good in an engine. The mixture of aerated oil will be forced into the bearings and in case you didn't know, air is not a lubricant. Typically this means that bearing damage will follow quite rapidly, especially if you are driving on a motorway. You'll know bearing damage when you get it. The engine smells like a garage mechanic cooking over an open flame and the noise coming from the engine is the sort of thing you'd normally hear in vaudeville plays when a piano is pushed down a flight of stairs. As if that all wasn't bad enough, the excess oil gets thrown up into the piston bores where the piston rings have a hard time coping with the excess oil and pressure. It gets into the combustion chamber and some of it will get out into the exhaust system unburned resulting in a nice patina of oil all over the platinum surfaces of your catalytic converter. This renders it utterly useless for good.

frate,aia e pt incalzirea uleiului. nu pune festila la rezervor :)

daca e acelesi principiu ca la e36 nu are cum sa o aspire. este de fapt o clapeta ca cea de la acceleratie montata in galeria de admisie. acea clapeta lucreaza dupa 4.000ture(la e36),distribuie mai bine aerul in cilindri optimizand cuplul/puterea.

nu esti singurul care asculta motorul cu/fara capota deschisa....din cand in cand :) am spus odata o chestie pe care o repet:la cei care sunt indiferenti cu masinile lor(din nestiinta sau prostie) nu prea cad piesele. iar cei care le "bibilesc" sansele de a pica ceva sunt mult mai mari. trist,dar adevarat.

tine-ti frate masina,ce ai cu ea? nu ai 100e pe luna?du-te la munca! lasa masina in pace! crezi ca esti singurul in situatia asta? vrei sa ai remuscari toata viata? :)

toba finala e34 2.0i 1995 gasesc?

un pret pt toba finala e34 2.0i '95?

ai ceva de munca. suruburile le poti da afara cu ciocanul :) asa scrie la carte :lol: spor!

dupa ce l-am curatat il zgaltai si daca se aude cum se misca(clanc-clanc :) ) inseamna ca e curat. adica mai mult de atat nu ii pot face.