alex230ro

incredibil,din ce vad au cam aceasi problema ca la E46-http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=867564 ce sa mai zic E46 e ultimul BMW pentru mine probabil ca daca e sa iau masini mai noi ma duc spre alta marca.

mersi,ursu nu mai e asa misto acum,am scos interiorul de pe el, motorul si acum e la tinichigiu pt operatii estetice destul de importante.azi ajung si cu compactul la revizie,ma bate gandul sa vad daca ai fac pana la urma o resoftare anul asta desi nu prea se merita.

la mine am reusit sa identific un tipar pt missfireurile anuale: -temp afara 4-5 grade umezeala masina pornita decat 1-2 min cu o zi inainte.la un missfire problema a fos joja de ulei nepusa cum trebuie la loc.(sau aparent asa s-a linistit dupa ce am infipt joja cum trebuie)

da,si nimic clar,la mine singura imbunatatire am vazut-o cand am resetat adaption values cu INPA.dar dupa 6 luni tremuratulla rece a reaparut(in afara de tremurat am si cate 2 missfire/an pe cilindrul 5 ).mirosul de benzina cred ca e normal la mine nu am nici un cod de eroare

da,cateva sute Cod Descriere Producator Pret cu TVA buc 23799 FE senzor ax came; partea de montare:spre evacuare; cod motor:n 42b20a; greutate (ÃĆÂĆÃâÂn kg):0,027; numar bucati necesare:1; numar conexiuni:3 FEBI 134 RON 24162 FE senzor pozitie ax came (febi); partea de montare:partea de admisie; greutate (Ãn kg):0,057; lungime [mm]:535; numar bucati necesare:1; numar conexiuni:3 FEBI 253 RON e normal tremuricul ala sau ma rog mai toate M54 il au,din ce am vazut face tremuriciul cat timp e in open loop oricum eu dupa ce pornesc motorul stau 30 sec 1 min pe loc (acum cativa ani un mecanic de la Bavaria mi-a recomandat asta,ceva cu uleiul sa faca presiune in Vanos a zis).Consumul nu il afecteaza .La mine la rece merge foarte bogat miroase destul e serios a benzina dar cum am zis in 30 sec 1 min se calmeaza

senzorul axe cu came cateva sute de lei si se schimba usor.dimineata la rece cum merge primele 30 sec?

cred ca da ,sincer pe buson as da vina si in cazul vasului de expansiune.Oricum pregateste-te de : -garnitura capac culbutori -senzor axe cu came -PCV mai ales daca ai drumuri scurte de facut prin oras.

la sh e de noroc,la mine am avut o problema asemanatoare dar radiatorul doar s-a curbat putin in partea de jos si nu a fost necesara inlocuirea.am scapat doar cu buson schimbat.

schimba asa preventiv si busonul de la vasul de expansiune.

pe serpentine cred ca sare cel mai mult consumul,daca merg la Bran cand fac dreapta inainte de Predeal catre Praul Rece am cam 8% consum(mers legal cam tot timpul) portiunea Praul Rece-Bran imi urca consumul la 9-10% oricum conteaza mult si motorul,cu cat mai mare cu atat mai bine mai ales in conditii de mers sportiv.

umm se pare ca asta e secretul consumului mai mic,la ora 7 plec si eu dimineata ) ma rog sunt ceva diferente intre masini dar consumul tot catre 11-12 sta acuma,la iarna probabil ca o sa mai creasca la mine ca am doar 5-6 km pana la munca.

96.004km -sapt viitoare schimb ulei+filtru ulei+filtru benzina,filtru de aer si polen le-am schimbat eu singur . anu asta parca am mers mai mult ursul face nani,mai am sa ai cumpar 2 praguri ,apoi vedem ce se mai gaseste la o radiografie amanuntita,sunt si ceva planuri de turbo dar mai e mult pana atunci.

oficial bmw da ceva de genu xWy unde x poate fi 0 sau 5 si y 30 sau 40,din testele facute de mine 0W40 sau 5W40 s-au comportat cel mai bine.la Motul pot sa spun ca nu am avut deloc consum de ulei in schimb cand l-am dat jos mirosea ca dracu ) edit:uleiul BMW oem nu Motul,desi parca si Motul era la fel.

cum ti-am zis cauta 320i sau 325i touring/sedan sau compact astea ar trebui sa fie cele mai ieftine-dar ai zis ca nu preferi 2 uside preferat facelift.baga un ochi pe E46 fanatics si o sa vezi problemele lor,nu sunt de speriat si multe lucruri le poti schimba tu linistit au aia o gramada de diy. exemple: http://www.mobile.de/ro/marc%C4%83/bmw/model/325/vhc:car,pgn:1,pgs:10,srt:date,sro:desc,mke:bmw,mdl:3__bmw_er_series,frn:2002-01,frx:2005-12,prn:1000,prx:4001,slt:dealer,ful:petrol,mlx:200000,pwn:110,pwx:148,ccn:1801,ccx:2600,vcg:limousine!estatecar/pg:vipcar/185220419.html http://www.mobile.de/ro/marc%C4%83/bmw/model/320/vhc:car,pgn:2,pgs:10,srt:date,sro:desc,mke:bmw,mdl:3__bmw_er_series,frn:2002-01,frx:2005-12,prn:1000,prx:4001,slt:dealer,ful:petrol,mlx:200000,pwn:110,pwx:148,ccn:1801,ccx:2600,vcg:limousine!estatecar/pg:vipcar/182895639.html http://www.mobile.de/ro/marc%C4%83/bmw/model/325/vhc:car,pgn:2,pgs:10,srt:date,sro:desc,mke:bmw,mdl:3__bmw_er_series,frn:2002-01,frx:2005-12,prn:1000,prx:4001,slt:dealer,ful:petrol,pwn:110,pwx:148,ccn:1801,ccx:2600/pg:vipcar/185353786.html cate unul din fiecare categorie

depinde ca nu pica toate odata,la diesel a picat turbo si ai aruncat 1000 eur ambreiaj volanta pica si la diesel role la fel.la M54 ai asa: -garnitura culbutori -pcv -senzori axe cu came -bobine daca sunt Bremi -senzori O2 mai ales la km multi bine la 3 litri mai e celebra problema cu pompa de ulei dar aia apare doar daca insisti cu turatiile mari.

fa-i o diagnoza,posibil sa ai un senzor de autoleveling dus-asta daca ambele faruri bat prost.daca bate doar unul vezi daca ai pus totul cum trebuie la loc.

H&R cred ca sunt ceva mai rigide,la mine pe virajele luate cu viteza si denivelari incep sa topai,la denivelari mici sunt mai ok decat stock la denivalari mari(speed bumps) e jale,bine se poate aplica cu succes oricand trecerea cu 40km/h peste speed bumps si nu simti nimic ) oricum sportline e echivalent H&R Race parca asa ca nu te astepta la o masina comfortabila.

daca nu le ia colegul,le iau eu

ai 2 voturi negative la primul post nu stiu daca asta poate fi numita critica

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=611798 http://www.e46fanatics.com/faq/faqs.php pe aici poti sa vezi ce vrei despre motoarele pe benzina de pe E46(cele cu 6 cil) citat de pe E46fanatics sau bimmerforums Getting EDGEucated: the "75k mile list" The E46 3-Series (1999-2005, including M) Edition After years of working on BMW's, we have begun to see common problems and maintenance concerns that need to be addressed on nearly every middle-aged BMW. E46 3-series cars, like all BMWs, they have certain areas that need to be inspected regularly, and prospective owners should always have a pre-purchase inspection done to verify the condition of these items. In this list, you will find items that should have been replaced or at least inspected by 75k-100k miles. Some are model specific, and will be noted as such. Areas of Concern: Broken window regulators: Leaves you stuck with your inoperative window in the down position. Warning signs sometimes are a noisy crunchy sound a few times before you lose control of your window. DIY's abound on various sites, and pay particular attention to your door seal when backing out of that area if you want to avoid rain soaked floors in your car. Lower Control Arm Bushing Failure Common symptoms for torn or cracked lower control arm bushings are undesired front toe changes during cornering, vague and rubbery feel in the steering, and vibration experienced while braking at freeway speeds. Non-M bushings are commonly replaced with M3 bushings to increase performance with little to no change in comfort. Tie Rod Wear Symtoms include: steering shimmy, clunking during steering input and inability to hold proper alignment. If any of the ball joint boots is cracked (you'll see grease coming out) then expect that component to need replacement. All components should also be checked for excessive play, and replaced if out of BMW spec. Worn or Blown Shocks and Struts Factory BMW shocks work great for about 30k. By 60k they are completely shot. Most folks who have been driving their cars since new hardly notice the deterioration as it is gradual. Symptoms includeiving under braking and acceleration, excessive lean and suspension compression during cornering. Bouncy and uncomfortable ride. Shocks and struts may visibly leak shock oil. EDGE generally recommends replacing the factory units with quality shocks from Koni whenever possible. When replacing shocks and struts, keep in mind it is a great time to install lowering springs or freshen up other areas of the suspension. You will be amazed at the difference a good set of shocks can make in both comfort and performance! Worn or Failed Swaybar Endlinks Worn swaybar endlinks can compromise handling. A worn swaybar can sound like a metallic clicking noise. There is no critical danger in a failed swaybar endlink, but the handling of the car is severely compromised. Torn Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (RTABs) E46's are prone to the same RTAB failure as the E36. In fact, since they are heavier cars, they tend to wear faster on the E46. If the rear of the car feels strange during cornering or you have excessive rear tire wear, expect that your RTABs are shot. Typical mileage for the E46 is around 35-45k. Failure to replace could lead to torn subframe and costly repairs. EDGE recommends replacement with factory units and RTAB limiting shims. The shims prevent excessive movement and can double the life of the bushing. Torn Rear Shock Mounts Torn or destroyed rear shock mounts will produce a very pronounced clunk during any sort of suspension movement, and could possibly just tear right through the trunk carpeting into the passenger cabin. Sloppy and erratic handling and excessive rear suspension play are common symptoms of a RSM failure. Torn Subframe and Subframe Bushings Torn subframe bushings could lead to subframe failure. Common symptoms of subframe failure are erratic handling and unidentified clunks and bangs from the rear of the car. Early detection of a torn or cracked subframe bushing can prevent costly subframe repair and welding. We see subframe issues mainly appearing in tracked and autocrossed E46's, but we have swapped out cracked bushings in higher mileage E46's as well. Torn or Cracked Transmission Mounts Torn transmission mounts could lead to the dreaded 'money shift,' or mechanical overrev and the possible (and likely) destruction of the car's motor. Worn transmission mounts allow for an excess amount of transmission movement. Symptoms can be hard, notchy and forced shifting during cornering, excessive shifter jerk during hard acceleration and braking, and muddy shifter feel. Ripped or Failed Guibo A torn guibo (Flex Disc) will result in a perceivable 'drivetrain elasticity.' Acceleration will be preceded with a loud clunk as the guibo bolts bind together. Dirty Automatic Transmission Fluid or Clogged Filter Hesitation and/or hard shifting could be the result of dirty and old automatic transmission fluid or clogged transmission filter. Water Pump Failure-----extremely common & tragic Water pump failure is without a doubt the easiest way to cause extensive and expensive damage to your BMW. The main symptom will be a rapidly overheating motor. What occurs is that the bearing or impeller on the stock pump breaks, completely disabling the cooling system. If you ever see the temperature gauge on your BMW climb above the 3/4 mark,... TURN THE CAR OFF IMMEDIATELY AND CALL A TOW TRUCK!! We can't stress this enough. Failure to catch the overheating motor in time can result in a warped head or even more severe engine damage. We recommend changing out the water pump in these six cylinder cars every 60-80k. Cracked Radiator Necks BMW loves their plastic radiator tanks....Unfortunately...The plastic around the radiator necks become brittle and crack with age, often without warning (see warning above.) Radiators should be thought of as 80-100k mile wear items. Trust us, this is cheap insurance! Fan Clutch Failure Most fan clutches fail between 80 and 100k miles. They provide the primary cooling for your car, and are easy for us to diagnose. Accessory Belt and Tensioner Failure Worn tensioners and idler pullies will sound like a squealing noise from the engine bay. Belts should be inspected for cracks regularly. If a belt happens to snap, the cooling system will fail as the water pump will cease to operate. Power steering and the alternator will also fail to work. Again, pull over and shut the car off immediately should you suspect a belt failure or see the temperature gauge rise past the 3/4 mark. Leaky valve cover gasket Prevalent on all BMWs, a burning oil smell could indicate a leaky valve cover gasket. If the condition continues unchecked, oil can seep into the spark plug holes and damage the ignition coils, resulting in costly replacement. Replacement of this inexpensive gasket is a good idea when changing sparkplugs as the coilpacks will already be out. Vanos seals. See www.beisansystems.com for details for explanation, symptoms and upgraded parts. Oil Filter Housing Gasket leaks. $6 part requires removal of the housing for replacement. DISA is pretty high up on the list of high fail rate components. Tail light ground circuit fix (recall on this). Sunroof - what a disaster that design is with leaks and jams and broken clips. Labor on this one is torture. Door locks can break. If your locks unlock and windows all roll completlely down by themselves spontaneously, replace the driver's door lock mechanism. O2 Sensor Failure Poor mileage, poor idle and flat spots in the power curve could be caused by bad O2 sensors. Even if your car isn't throwing a check engine light, they may not be performing optimally. BMW recommends replacing the O2 sensors every 100k miles. Extended high-RPM running/racing and high-performance chips may shorten the replacement cycle. Oil Separator Non M cars. If you have a poor idle and periodic Check Engine lights, you may have a bad oil seperator. This valve tends to go bad and introduce a vacuum leak which produces the above symptoms and will eventually strand you somewhere. We started seeing these a year ago and we are now repairing more and more cars with this problem. Typical mileage seems to be around 80k. The good news is that the part is only around $75..the bad news is that the labor runs about 4 hours, depending on the year of the car. Clogged and dirty pollen filter If the flow of air out of the air conditioning and heater system is not as strong as it used to be, it strongly suggests the pollen microfilter of your car has become dirty and clogged over time. A damp and musky smell can also indicate a dirty filter. This is a service II replacement item.

la anul oricum in momentul de fata am destule masini,doar ca BMW-urile sunt in 2 usi, si compactul si ursul .tot pe Golf pica greul =)))

2-3 ani e perfect,si nou avem in plani 2 copii si ar pica la fix

bun avand in vedere ce a scris iti recomand un 320i facelfit,eventual touring ca sa iesi mai ieftin.ce va pica: -senzor ax came admisie/evacuare -DISA-doar la multi km -garnitura culbutori -piesa cu tepi(final stage resitor) -pe la stopurile spate ceva a fosr recall in US de curand si mai sunt cateva lucruri http://www.mobile.de/ro/categorie/automobil/vhc:car,pgn:1,pgs:10,srt:date,sro:desc,mke:bmw,mdl:3__bmw_er_series,frn:2002-01,frx:2005-12,prn:1000,prx:4001,ful:petrol,mln:100000,mlx:200000,pwn:110,pwx:148,vcg:estatecar aici e ce am gasit eu,cam slaba oferta ce e drept

sunt trist ca nu a ajuns la mine oricum sper sa fi multumit de Golf @Dok felicitari,vezi ca e X3 3.0sd

318i N42 sau N46= probleme semeringuri vanos si alte cacaturi cutie automata= posibila sursa de probleme so pe langa banii de achizitie iti recomand sa mai ai macar 1000-1500 eur pt neprevazute. mai e un coleg cu o serie 1 118i cu multe probleme si la fel putin km ,citeste si topicul acela. si topicul serie 1 http://www.bmwclub.ro/forums/topic/134230-achizitie-seria-1/