dj4u

Practic doar au fost pusi pe masina si dati jos.mecanicul a insistat sa-i schimb desi vibratia nu era de la suporti.Pana la urma am pus pe original si tot degeaba.vibratia era de la tampoanele la cutie...si de asta mi-au ramas suportii...

Vand suporti motor de ff buna calitate Bmw 320d 110 kw marca Lemforder Pret 300 ron perechea! si marca Impergom 150 lei perechea!

Am rezolvat.Am schimbat sensor presiune si am facut prescrie la debitmetru.Acum relantiul sta fix

pe elevator nu se simte nimik...banuiesc ca numai in sarcina.Verifica bucsile la jug!

@Gomorra,ar avea legatua ce spui...cum se poate testa sensorul de temp motor?

v@sy asa este.Insa relantiul trebuie sa stea automat la 1000rpm nu sa-l tin eu...si chiar daca sta asta nu garanteaza ca dispar fructuatiile.Mai pot fi si alte motive!

posibil de la garnituri la tine...

Nu are nici o treaba termostatul cu pornirea...este mechanic cum ar putea trimite la ecu?

Cand nu face fata...alternatorul trimite un impuls la calculator si ti se tureaza un pic relantiul pentru a recupera lipsa de energie!la cat iti sta relantiul la prima pornire?

asa si la mine.dar nu prea as crede sa fie de la alternator...pt ca dupa ce se incalzeste motorul numai face!

Dataliaza cum iti iti vibreaza la ce rpm. Verifica planetarele...daca au joc.si mai fa o constatare la flanse,cruci etc.Uni mecanici sunt orbi!

Mecanici priceputi nu sunt!majoritatea lucreaza prin eliminare...asa cum poate orcine sa fie mechanic!

Da.am vazut...filmarea este veche.Tocmai asta e problem la mine,nu se accelereaza singur decat acum dupa schimbarea heater-ului dar nu sufficient!DACA AI DIESEL CUM TI-A DAT PE TESTER SONDA LABDA???

La diesel nu ai soc.Al tau are ca e benzinar...la tn am auzit ca este un regulator de relanti care se curata...

Am pornit dimineata motorul...relantiul a urcat pana la 790rpm de la 730 cum sta normal.totusi la ce frig ce efara trebuia sa urce la 900 -1100.am sa incerc si alt heater posibil asta sa nu mearga la toti parametric lui!

sh...

Am schimbat azi si heater=ul.Dupa ce I am dat cheie...relantiul a crescut la 780rpm in conditiile in care imi statea iarna vara la 730.Numai clipesc luminile de fructuat fff putin probabil pana se invata calculatorul.Dimineata ar trebui sa urce relantiul la 1100rpm si sa coboare pe masura ce se incalzeste...

Salut ar avea o logica ce spui...am gasit cum functioneaza circuitul... I thought the auxillary heater was to speed up heating of the engine coolant in cold conditions & light load conditions. Yep :- Electric Auxiliary Heater DDE 3.0 (E46 only) The electric auxiliary heater heats the coolant with electric heating elements to compensate for the slight heat loss at high degrees of engine efficiency. Depending on the vehicle equipment, the heating request is sent either from the air conditioning system (IHKA) or from the heating control to the DDE control unit. The heating elements only cut in only when there are sufficient electrical power reserves. To determine the available power reserves, the alternator sends a pulse duty factor signal corresponding to the current alternator load to the DDE control unit. Depending on the permitted additional alternator load, the DDE control unit activates the auxiliary heater with a square-wave signal with pulse duty factors (= variable pulse width) between 5 and 95 % thus controlling various heating power stages. The idle speed is increased to 930 rpm when the auxiliary heater is activated. Cutout conditions The auxiliary heater is switched off under the following operating conditions: •Battery voltage < 12 V (ON hysteresis 12.8 V) •Engine speed < 790 rpm (ON hysteresis 810 rpm) •Time after engine start < 10 s •Coolant temperature The coolant temperature threshold that must be exceeded for the auxiliary heater to cut out is determined with the measured ambient temperature from a characteristic curve. Characteristic curve data: Ambient temperature [°C] Coolant temperature threshold [°C] -40.0 86.0 -5.0 86.0 10.0 50.0 20.0 17.0 30.0 17.0 Important: A fixed coolant temperature threshold of 86 °C applies if no outside temperature sensor is fitted. The outside temperature sensor is fitted in the following E46 models: •On all models with 6-cylinder engines •On models with 4-cylinder engines only with on-board computer or air conditioning. The auxiliary heater is also switched off when one of the following fault codes is stored: •35, "Coolant temperature sensor" •1B, "Electric auxiliary heater" •75, "Alternator load signal" Troubleshooting The activation function is monitored for short-circuit and open circuit. Fault code 1B "electric auxiliary heater" is stored if a defect occurs. Consequence: Poor heating capacity at low temperatures If the alternator indicates a load signal of 0 %, fault code 75 "Alternator load signal" is stored. Consequence: Auxiliary heater is switched off From WDS BMW Wiring Diagram System - 3 E46 I think you guys are getting mixed up between an auxillary electric water pump (didn't think 320d's had these) & the auxillary heater.

nu cred ca este de acolo.Poate fi vacuum insuficient sau un scurt.Cu motorul pornit da-I clima la 20g si vezi daca mai face.

am inteles ca nu se potrivesc.mergi la service il dai pe al tau si iti da altu reconditionat.dar inainte...verifica daca ai joc la planetare

diagnoze am tot facut...nu au gasit nimik.Mi s-a spus ca nu stiu de aceasta problema si ca nu a reclamat nimeni pana acum...

nu credca e de aici buba...am schimbat-o azi si nici o diferenta...

pompa auxiliara are rolul...sa circule apa mai repede cand motorul este rece sa ti bage caldura mai repede in masina.daca pe tester iti arata ca nu merge incearca sa bati un pic in ea si isi revine.insa nu cred ca de la ea sunt oscilatiile...

Salut,am si eu problem cu relantiul... cand pornesc caldura oscileaza relantiul si clipeste semnalizarea.alta chestie am observant la alte masini anume la porniri pe frig relantiul se tureaza automat la 1100rpm pana se incalzeste motroul,pe cand la mine nu.are cineva idei?masina 320d e 46 110 kw