Sfat/Ajutor in cumpararea primului meu BMW

[KIP]

De ce imi modifici quote-ul ? :console:

[Emanuel01]

alex, din pacate nu iti pot vedea linkul

cat pentru restul, stiu de handlerii care nu mai sunt nemti de mult si umbla la kilometri.

si stiu si ca nu tre sa te bazezi pe ce gasesti sau ca dau km inapoi. sincer ma astept ca dieselurile sa fie pe la 350-400k si benzinarele pe la 250k + .

despre miscat, o sa merg de 2 ori, odata in vest cand am o conferinta si mi-am luat vreo 3 zile in plus ca sa ma plimb pe acolo cu o masina. si daca nu gasesc nimic, ma intorc in dk si plec iar in partea de est.

[Emanuel01]

Am gasit ce e si DISA-ul

touring nu-mi place, si pana nu am copii nu o sa-mi iau.

325i facelift merita?

 

Si masina lui Mishoo, va ramane ca backup daca nu o fura cineva. masina arata superb, si dupa discutii cu fiscul, costa bani )), caci nu cred ca se califica nici ca above average condition, sigur nu e noua?. singurul lucru pe care inca nu ma taxeaza e aerul respirat.

Edited October 21, 2013 by Emanuel01

[mikken]

Emanuel, nu inteleg de ce nu e ok daca iei masina din Romania? Poti circula 30 zile din ce stiu cu numerele existente (daca iei numere rosii, nu te lasa sa iesi din tara cu ea parca), asigurarea RCA e valabila...o duci in DK si o inmatriculezi acolo. Nu e acelasi lucru ca si cum ai cumpara-o din Germania?

 

Si eu iti recomand masina lui Mishoo sincer sa fiu, stiu cum a fost intretinuta si ingrijita. Eventual poti vorbi cu el sa isi recupereze in instanta taxa de inmatriculare pe care a platit-o, ca pe tine oricum nu te mai afecteaza si astfel poate iti ofera si un discount

 

Oricum sincer sa fiu...te compatimesc ca trebuie sa platesti asemenea taxe aberante pentru a te bucura de o masina de 4000 euro

 

Am avut si eu E46 si iti pot spune ca e o masina foarte echilibrata si relativ ieftin de intretinut (daca nu mergi la service in reprezentanta si cumperi eventual piese aftermarket care sunt mai ieftine)...in special motoarele pe benzina (diesel-ul e mai pacatos ca si intretinere insa cuplul oferit chiar si de motorul de 2000cmc este foarte bun).

 

Ca probleme uzuale (din experienta proprie cu E46) ar fi basculele fata...se duce pivotul ala si se schimba doar cu tot cu brat + bucsele aferente (acum depinde si ce drumuri a vazut...a mea era impecabila cand a venit din Germania, insa in 3 ani de Romania am schimbat bratele de 2 ori ), apoi am mai curatat EGR, turbina si admisia...erau pline de funingine si dupa masina era de nerecunoscut, tragea mult mai bine, flansa de la cardan a cedat si a trebuit sa o schimb (dar asta probabil si din cauza ca a mea era 330d si avea cuplu foarte mare), bieletele antiruliu pe fata (sunt ieftine), amortizoarele + flanse, bujii si cam atat.

[alex230ro]

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=611798

 

 

http://www.e46fanatics.com/faq/faqs.php

 

pe aici poti sa vezi ce vrei despre motoarele pe benzina de pe E46(cele cu 6 cil)

 

citat de pe E46fanatics sau bimmerforums

 

Getting EDGEucated: the "75k mile list"

The E46 3-Series (1999-2005, including M) Edition

 

After years of working on BMW's, we have begun to see common problems and maintenance concerns that need to be addressed on nearly every middle-aged BMW. E46 3-series cars, like all BMWs, they have certain areas that need to be inspected regularly, and prospective owners should always have a pre-purchase inspection done to verify the condition of these items.

 

In this list, you will find items that should have been replaced or at least inspected by 75k-100k miles. Some are model specific, and will be noted as such.

 

 

 

Areas of Concern:

 

Broken window regulators: Leaves you stuck with your inoperative window in the down position.

Warning signs sometimes are a noisy crunchy sound a few times before you lose control of your window.

DIY's abound on various sites, and pay particular attention to your door seal when backing out of that area if you want to avoid rain soaked floors in your car.

 

Lower Control Arm Bushing Failure

 

Common symptoms for torn or cracked lower control arm bushings are undesired front toe changes during cornering, vague and rubbery feel in the steering, and vibration experienced while braking at freeway speeds. Non-M bushings are commonly replaced with M3 bushings to increase performance with little to no change in comfort.

 

Tie Rod Wear

 

Symtoms include: steering shimmy, clunking during steering input and inability to hold proper alignment. If any of the ball joint boots is cracked (you'll see grease coming out) then expect that component to need replacement. All components should also be checked for excessive play, and replaced if out of BMW spec.

 

Worn or Blown Shocks and Struts

Factory BMW shocks work great for about 30k. By 60k they are completely shot. Most folks who have been driving their cars since new hardly notice the deterioration as it is gradual. Symptoms includeiving under braking and acceleration, excessive lean and suspension compression during cornering. Bouncy and uncomfortable ride. Shocks and struts may visibly leak shock oil. EDGE generally recommends replacing the factory units with quality shocks from Koni whenever possible. When replacing shocks and struts, keep in mind it is a great time to install lowering springs or freshen up other areas of the suspension. You will be amazed at the difference a good set of shocks can make in both comfort and performance!

 

Worn or Failed Swaybar Endlinks

Worn swaybar endlinks can compromise handling. A worn swaybar can sound like a metallic clicking noise. There is no critical danger in a failed swaybar endlink, but the handling of the car is severely compromised.

 

Torn Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (RTABs)

E46's are prone to the same RTAB failure as the E36. In fact, since they are heavier cars, they tend to wear faster on the E46. If the rear of the car feels strange during cornering or you have excessive rear tire wear, expect that your RTABs are shot. Typical mileage for the E46 is around 35-45k. Failure to replace could lead to torn subframe and costly repairs. EDGE recommends replacement with factory units and RTAB limiting shims. The shims prevent excessive movement and can double the life of the bushing.

 

Torn Rear Shock Mounts

Torn or destroyed rear shock mounts will produce a very pronounced clunk during any sort of suspension movement, and could possibly just tear right through the trunk carpeting into the passenger cabin. Sloppy and erratic handling and excessive rear suspension play are common symptoms of a RSM failure.

 

Torn Subframe and Subframe Bushings

Torn subframe bushings could lead to subframe failure. Common symptoms of subframe failure are erratic handling and unidentified clunks and bangs from the rear of the car. Early detection of a torn or cracked subframe bushing can prevent costly subframe repair and welding. We see subframe issues mainly appearing in tracked and autocrossed E46's, but we have swapped out cracked bushings in higher mileage E46's as well.

 

Torn or Cracked Transmission Mounts

Torn transmission mounts could lead to the dreaded 'money shift,' or mechanical overrev and the possible (and likely) destruction of the car's motor. Worn transmission mounts allow for an excess amount of transmission movement. Symptoms can be hard, notchy and forced shifting during cornering, excessive shifter jerk during hard acceleration and braking, and muddy shifter feel.

 

Ripped or Failed Guibo

A torn guibo (Flex Disc) will result in a perceivable 'drivetrain elasticity.' Acceleration will be preceded with a loud clunk as the guibo bolts bind together.

 

Dirty Automatic Transmission Fluid or Clogged Filter

Hesitation and/or hard shifting could be the result of dirty and old automatic transmission fluid or clogged transmission filter.

 

Water Pump Failure-----extremely common & tragic

 

Water pump failure is without a doubt the easiest way to cause extensive and expensive damage to your BMW. The main symptom will be a rapidly overheating motor. What occurs is that the bearing or impeller on the stock pump breaks, completely disabling the cooling system. If you ever see the temperature gauge on your BMW climb above the 3/4 mark,...

 

TURN THE CAR OFF IMMEDIATELY AND CALL A TOW TRUCK!!

 

We can't stress this enough. Failure to catch the overheating motor in time can result in a warped head or even more severe engine damage. We recommend changing out the water pump in these six cylinder cars every 60-80k.

 

Cracked Radiator Necks

BMW loves their plastic radiator tanks....Unfortunately...The plastic around the radiator necks become brittle and crack with age, often without warning (see warning above.) Radiators should be thought of as 80-100k mile wear items. Trust us, this is cheap insurance!

 

Fan Clutch Failure

Most fan clutches fail between 80 and 100k miles. They provide the primary cooling for your car, and are easy for us to diagnose.

 

Accessory Belt and Tensioner Failure

Worn tensioners and idler pullies will sound like a squealing noise from the engine bay. Belts should be inspected for cracks regularly. If a belt happens to snap, the cooling system will fail as the water pump will cease to operate. Power steering and the alternator will also fail to work. Again, pull over and shut the car off immediately should you suspect a belt failure or see the temperature gauge rise past the 3/4 mark.

 

Leaky valve cover gasket

Prevalent on all BMWs, a burning oil smell could indicate a leaky valve cover gasket. If the condition continues unchecked, oil can seep into the spark plug holes and damage the ignition coils, resulting in costly replacement. Replacement of this inexpensive gasket is a good idea when changing sparkplugs as the coilpacks will already be out.

 

Vanos seals. See www.beisansystems.com for details for explanation, symptoms and upgraded parts.

 

Oil Filter Housing Gasket leaks. $6 part requires removal of the housing for replacement.

 

DISA is pretty high up on the list of high fail rate components.

 

Tail light ground circuit fix (recall on this).

 

Sunroof - what a disaster that design is with leaks and jams and broken clips. Labor on this one is torture.

 

Door locks can break. If your locks unlock and windows all roll completlely down by themselves spontaneously, replace the driver's door lock mechanism.

 

O2 Sensor Failure

 

Poor mileage, poor idle and flat spots in the power curve could be caused by bad O2 sensors. Even if your car isn't throwing a check engine light, they may not be performing optimally. BMW recommends replacing the O2 sensors every 100k miles. Extended high-RPM running/racing and high-performance chips may shorten the replacement cycle.

 

Oil Separator

Non M cars. If you have a poor idle and periodic Check Engine lights, you may have a bad oil seperator. This valve tends to go bad and introduce a vacuum leak which produces the above symptoms and will eventually strand you somewhere. We started seeing these a year ago and we are now repairing more and more cars with this problem. Typical mileage seems to be around 80k. The good news is that the part is only around $75..the bad news is that the labor runs about 4 hours, depending on the year of the car.

 

Clogged and dirty pollen filter

If the flow of air out of the air conditioning and heater system is not as strong as it used to be, it strongly suggests the pollen microfilter of your car has become dirty and clogged over time. A damp and musky smell can also indicate a dirty filter. This is a service II replacement item.

Edited October 21, 2013 by alex230ro

[Emanuel01]

wow, asta a fost foarte detaliat. multumesc

 

mikken, ideea e ca am vazut masini din ro vs masini de aici, si din pacate din cauza drumurilor din ro, cea romaneasca era plina de greieri.

A doua problema e ca un drum pana in ro sa aduc masina ma costa mult si ar trebui sa las procedura de import (poate dura pana la 3 luni) pe anul viitor. nu doresc asta, din diferite motive financiare

[BOASKA]

wow, asta a fost foarte detaliat. multumesc

 

mikken, ideea e ca am vazut masini din ro vs masini de aici, si din pacate din cauza drumurilor din ro, cea romaneasca era plina de greieri.

A doua problema e ca un drum pana in ro sa aduc masina ma costa mult si ar trebui sa las procedura de import (poate dura pana la 3 luni) pe anul viitor. nu doresc asta, din diferite motive financiare

 

 

tu trebuie sa cumperi una din apropiere, de ex un oras mare Hamburg etc

[Emanuel01]

incerc, insa din pacate nu gasesc nimic prea aproape. si cum stau in nord. va fi o peripetie sa ajung pana in sud.

oricum, asta voi incerca. voi da 2 ture si daca nu voi gasi nimic, sper sa mai aiba colegul mishoo masina de vanzare.

chiar arata foarte bine si chiar e mai mult decat mi-as fi dorit (cu exceptia pretului, care e putin mai mare decat am bugetat eu).

[BOASKA]

eu zic ca trebuie sa cauti in zona hamburg-bremen-hannover- kiel, imposibil sa nu gasesti ceva

[Emanuel01]

in zona hamburg gasesc doar de la handleri din est (estul europei sau si mai departe) sau de la :privati" ce le-au dezinmatriculat insa poti face test drive cu ele ))

oricum, solutii sunt. ideea e ca e primul meu bmw si nu stiu la ce sa ma uit decat daca e MIL-ul aprins. in rest, chestiile precum DISA si astea nu le stiam.

Edited October 22, 2013 by Emanuel01

[BOASKA]

in zona hamburg gasesc doar de la handleri din est (estul europei sau si mai departe) sau de la :privati" ce le-au dezinmatriculat insa poti face test drive cu ele ))

oricum, solutii sunt. ideea e ca e primul meu bmw si nu stiu la ce sa ma uit decat daca e MIL-ul aprins. in rest, chestiile precum DISA si astea nu le stiam.

 

alea abmeldate la primarie si fara tßv nu merita sa le vezi, händlerii clar au pretul mai mare si fara o diagnoza pe masina nu stii ce iei...

[Emanuel01]

cel putin in cazul e46, in rangeul meu de pret gasesc mai multe amsini la privati sau "privati" decat la handleri.

oricum, voi incepe sa sun dupa masini sa vad cand ma pot duce la ele

[DOMI]

chiar nu gasesti un e46 in toata danemarca aia sa nu te mai complici cu import, taxa de prima inmatriculare etc... ? Edited October 23, 2013 by DOMI

[Emanuel01]

daca gasesc un e46 e plin de rugina (boala tarilor nordice), si dau cu minim 3000euro in plus doar ca e inmatriculat deja. apoi astia sunt celebri pentru durerea in cot ce o au fata de masinile lor. si avantajul aici e ca daca am nr de inmatriculare, pot verifica istoricul masinii, si sa vad cand a picat ITP-ul pentru noxe, catalizator, pistoane, rugina etc. am cautat deja masini aici.

[vl69uli]

Deci hai sa vedem daca am inteles eu bine.Ai putea sa gasesati in DK un e46 intr-o stare nu prea buna cu rugina pe el la 3000 FARA taxe,sau mai ai varianta cu DE unde gasesti un e46 bun la 4000+10k taxe.Este corect?Daca da,de ce nu il iei de acolo si mai investeti inca 1k in el sa il faci cum vrei?

Si totusi ma indoiesc ca nu gasesti acolo un E46 in mintile lui

[BOASKA]

Emanuel cum sunt taxele la moto? cred ca la fel ca in Germania adica foarte mici, zau ca nu se merita 15k pentru un e46

[matacheiulian55]

Ai putea sa gasesati in DK un e46 intr-o stare nu prea buna cu rugina pe el la 3000 FARA taxe

 

 

Eu cred ca el a scris cu totul altceva.

[bitz]

3000 in plus , adica pe la 17.000 euro. Edited October 24, 2013 by bitz

[vl69uli]

Eu cred ca el a scris cu totul altceva.

 

"daca gasesc un e46 e plin de rugina (boala tarilor nordice), si dau cu minim 3000euro in plus astia sunt celebri pentru durerea in cot ce o au fata de masinile lor. "

 

LE.Acum am vazut si "in plus",sarisem peste el:)).Am inteles acum.Dar totusi cum zice si BOASKA, 14k-15k pentru un E46 e enorm.

Edited October 24, 2013 by vl69uli

[Emanuel01]

taxele la moto, sunt doar 80% din valoarea ei de catalog.

Si da, a doua oara ai inteles bine. daca aduc eu un e46 din germania dau pe taxe undeva intre 8000euro si 11000euro in plus doar taxa de inmatriculare (fara ITP,NUMERE,ASIGURARE, taxe de drum).

daca e sa iau aici, cel mai ieftin l-am gasit pe la vreo 11000euro (e46 sedan dupa 2001) insa a picat de 2 ori ITP-ul din cauza noxelor (nu este foarte detaliat raportul ITP) si 100% are probleme cu rugina (cam toata lumea face macar odata la 2 ani o grunduire speciala anti rugina, ca masina sa fie cat de cat ok, dar tot nu scapi complet de ea). si oricum nu am foarte multe de ales, daca sunt 3-4 sub 15.000euro. importul (caci ei asa ii zic) nu e mare greutate atat timp cat ai bani. stiu ce hartogaraie imi trebuie si pe la ce birouri tre sa ma plimb. masina imi mai trebuie.

iar din pacate, am avut destul de mult contact cu populatia aborigena si mecanicii lor ca sa-mi fie frica sa iau masini de la ei (au o nepasare in ei cand vine vorba de ingrijit masina de nu-ti vine sa crezi) iar mecanicii sunt mai prafi ca mama in ale masinii.

Edited October 24, 2013 by Emanuel01

[matacheiulian55]

Eu iti inteleg entuziasmul si dorinta dar sa dai 15k euro pe un e46 in anul 2013 si sa nu fie M, mi se pare total absurd.

[Catalin BMW]

LOOOOL, a innebunit lupu'? n-am citit topicul asta, am vazut doar ceva de genul "15k € pt un e46". Fara ofensa, dar la banii astia vezi ca e plina piata de masini noi....

[mikken]

Catalin, citeste topicul si o sa intelegi de ce costa un E46 atat

 

Acum sincer, daca astea sunt preturile acolo, iar omul castiga suficienti bani cat sa-si permita atat achizitia cat si intretinerea (asta a declarat el)...care e problema pana la urma?

 

E ca si cum ai spune, ahhh nu as da 1000 euro chirie pe o garsoniera, pentru ca aici in Romania gasesc si cu 150 euro...ok si atunci stai in strada? Comparatia e un pic exagerata, pentru ca fara masina probabil ar putea trai bine mersi, dar daca omu vrea sa-si ia masina...sa-si ia

[DOMI]

orice cumpara tot la banii aia ajunge....

nu cumpara nici o masina noua, ca si la aia se aplica taxa de prima inmatriculare si e si mai mare, ca e masina noua..

E cam ca in Olanda, unde e ~ 30% din valoarea masinii...

Iei masina de 30k, mai bagi 10 k taxa .. si tot asa... asta e pretul acolo..

doar povestea omul mai sus.. ca un logan nou e gen 14k...

Edited October 24, 2013 by DOMI

[manolica1]

pfuuu ce scoruri... dupa ce ca sunt pline de rugina si-o gramada de bani...