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schimb de ulei

cozaciuccs

By cozaciuccs
in Seria 3

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cozaciuccs Newbie

cozaciuccs

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trebuie sa schimb uleiul dar nu stiu de care sa pun care e mai bun.

am fost la un magazin de piese auto,dupa ce sa uitat in certificatu masini mia recomandat sa pun original BMW 10w 30

dupa am mai fost la un alt magazin,aici mia zis ca sa pun tot org BMW dar 5w40 ca asta miar fi bun la cati km am.

as dori sa va intreb si pe voi , sa imi dati un sfat cam ce ar trebui sa pun.

am un 318d, e46, din 2002 si are 194.000 km in bord,deci ce ar trebui sa pun

si inca ceva are ceva daca pun si un flacon de dura lube dar nuj daca afecteaza cu ceva acuma cand is gerurile astea ,adica sa porneasca mai greu din cauza lui.

va multumes pt timpu acordat.

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cozaciuccs Newbie

cozaciuccs

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nu e un aditiv,stiu f multi care il folosesc si is super multumiti,lam folosit si eu dar la o masina mai veche din 1994 si se vedea diferentele a inceput sa fie mai silentioasa ,tragea mai bn,si parca si consumul mi la mai scazut

ia uite site unde sa citesti despre produs,

sau zimi te rog un motiv bn intemeiat dc nu trebuie sa bag aditiv in motor,ce ar putea sa strice?

asta e adresa despre produs ,aici iti zice la ce foloseste http://www.performance.com.ro/produse/dura...l/index-faq.php

 

Castrol 5W-40.

e mai bun castrol decat original bmw?

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RaduXI Newbie

RaduXI

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Baga original bmw 5w-30, vezi ca vand baietii pe forum(in jur de 50 ron litrul)...altfel verifica bidonul sa nu iei teapa si sa fie facut in turcia sau in alte parti. Sub eticheta de made in germany sau greece gasesti alta cu made in turkey :). Uleiul original este din ce stiu o formula speciala a celor BMW si Castrol pt. motoarele lor.
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ingineru' Rising Star

ingineru'

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zimi te rog un motiv bn intemeiat dc nu trebuie sa bag aditiv in motor,ce ar putea sa strice?

It's interesting to note that some race techs have reported sludge buildup in race engines as a result of aftermarket additives being used in conjunction with the regular oil. The chemical composition of the additives isn't as neutral as some companies would lead us to believe, and combined with particular types of oil and high-stress driving, they can cause oil breakdown and sludge to appear. The lesson from them appears to be "don't use additives".

 

 

How do I read the numbers around the 'W'? For example 5W40?

Single grade oils get too thin when hot for most modern engines which is where multigrade oil comes in. The idea is simple - use science and physics to prevent the base oil from getting as thin as it would normally do when it gets hot. There's more detail on this later in the page under both viscosity, and SAE ratings. But as a quick primer - the number before the 'W' is the 'cold' viscosity rating of the oil, and the number after the 'W' is the 'hot' viscosity rating. So a 5W40 oil is one which behaves like a 5-rated single grade oil when cold, but doesn't thin any more than a 40-rated single grade oil when hot. The lower the 'winter' number (hence the 'W'), the easier the engine will turn over when starting in cold climates.

 

A quick guide to the different grades of oil.

Fully Synthetic Characteristics

0W-30

0W-40

5W-40 Fuel economy savings

Enhances engine performance and power

Ensures engine is protected from wear and deposit build-up

Ensures good cold starting and quick circulation in freezing temperatures

Gets to moving parts of the engine quickly

Semi-synthetic Characteristics

5W-30

10W-40

15W-40 Better protection

Good protection within the first 10 minutes after starting out

Roughly three times better at reducing engine wear

Increased oil change intervals - don't need to change it quite so often

Mineral Characteristics

10W-40

15W-40 Basic protection for a variety of engines

Oil needs to be changed more often

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ingineru' Rising Star

ingineru'

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To illustrate the whole point about additives, consider this. In the manufacture of synthetic oils, once the synthetic polyol ester bases are created, anti-wear additives such as zinc dithiophosphates (essentially combinations of zinc, phosphorous, and sulphour molecules) are added. These combinations are extremely effective as anti-oxidant, anti-wear, anti-corrosion inhibitors. Now look at the contents of some of the after-market additives. Wow! Zinc, phosphorous and sulphour! Imagine that. Those aftermarket additives are actually exactly what your oil manufacturer has put in already.

 

Consider further that some oil companies actually make a point of telling you not to use aftermarket additives with their oils.

 

So if these additives are so brilliant, why do the companies always seem to end up in trouble? Well - misleading advertising and non-active "active" ingredients claim a lot of victims.

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DOMI Newbie

DOMI

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Pai scrie "Motul" pe el :) . Si jos, cu litere mici lista de standarde. De regula alea BMW LL 02, 04 nu maiau nimic altceva pe lista aia... Adica nu vezi BMW LL 04 si VW XXX ...

Din cate stiu Motul ca firma e frantuzesca. Am vazut folosit in service destul de mult in Germania, nu asa des ca Liqui Molly dar destul de mult. Cred ca e ulei bun.

Edited by DOMI
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